This tutorial is a few years old [note how jacked up my hair is in some of the pics] **cringe**
Before & After
Before & After3 sections may take a while and be time consuming but once every 4 months is worth it for me. No burns, No Breakage & an even relaxer all over. Good Luck ladies.
Step 1
Part the hair in either 2 or 3 sections. I work in 3 sections. This is the top half parted in 2.
Step 2
Step 2The back half is parted, this will count as 1 section. Base the edges, parting and as much on the scalp as possible with either petroleum jelly or a basing product specifically for relaxing. You can also add a conditioner or protectant on the previously relaxed parts of the hair to avoid over processing is accidentally overlapped.
Step 3
Step 4
Step 3Make sure you are wearing Latex or plastic gloves, and are using a tinting brush to apply the relaxer. Start at the top part of the hair near the parting. Leave the finer sections till last to apply the creme to and smooth. If you do this at the start by the end it may become over processed and lead to breakage. Always over base the finer sections of your hair if you are worried about this happening. I always part with my fingers along the way. or the tail end of the tinting brush. Make sure the hair has been separated as much as possible prior to relaxer application as this will make it easier to apply the relaxer and cut down on the processing time. Try and avoid vigorous tugging and pulling trying to comb through the hair during basing. I find the best method is to finger separate when basing my scalp.
You can either work vertically or horizontally whichever is more comfortable for you. I work both ways during the touch up process. Apply cream to the underside of the new growth and the repeat this process for the top side of the same section of hair. You should have 1 section with relaxer applied to the top and bottom, or left side and right side. I separate at about 1/3 to 1/2 of an inch of hair when applying the cream. Don't worry about the cream not yet being on every strand, this will be rectified when smoothing, and by applying the creme to the underside and top part of the same section of hair it will speed the smoothing process up and get a better relaxer result. Apply the relaxer to as much of your hair as possible. Apply a generous amount but not too much. What will end up happening before you've finished is the creme seeping through the hair onto your scalp which is already very warm causing scalp sores and a possible need to rinse earlier than necessary. I always apply down the side closest to my ears and the very nape last. I would say these are my fine areas and need less relaxer time.
You can either work vertically or horizontally whichever is more comfortable for you. I work both ways during the touch up process. Apply cream to the underside of the new growth and the repeat this process for the top side of the same section of hair. You should have 1 section with relaxer applied to the top and bottom, or left side and right side. I separate at about 1/3 to 1/2 of an inch of hair when applying the cream. Don't worry about the cream not yet being on every strand, this will be rectified when smoothing, and by applying the creme to the underside and top part of the same section of hair it will speed the smoothing process up and get a better relaxer result. Apply the relaxer to as much of your hair as possible. Apply a generous amount but not too much. What will end up happening before you've finished is the creme seeping through the hair onto your scalp which is already very warm causing scalp sores and a possible need to rinse earlier than necessary. I always apply down the side closest to my ears and the very nape last. I would say these are my fine areas and need less relaxer time.
Smoothing now begins. Drop that tinting brush and smooth baby smooth. No combs are required just the fingers. Imagine you are flipping through a ream of paper using your index (pointer) fingers rapidly, that is the same motion I use to smooth. I smooth constantly right up until jumping in the shower. If you have a coarse hair type like mine it's probably best advised. You will be left with a curl/wave pattern and body to the hair but it won't be bone and lifeless and stretched beyond belief. If your hair is finer, then you may not need to smooth constantly. I start at the top and smooth down using the motion I just described. I finger part ever so gently and smooth every section down. Until it looks like the picture above. The reason why I applied creme to both sides was to make this process smoother. The creme has a better chance of reaching all the in between hair strands by 'melting' through when you smooth it down. You can apply more creme if necessary during this process. You yourself will know if you need to. Do not go over your time limit for your hair type and strength of relaxer used. Once you feel that tingle or the clock strikes it's time to rinse.
Do not use a comb to comb the relaxer through, this is time consuming and damaging. The relaxer is already breaking down the bonds of the hair, when you couple that with dragging a comb through each coated strand, what you are doing is stretching the hair which is already being broken down, it's like a double process. You may get straighter hair, but it will definitely be weaker. I do not advise this. I also find the back of the comb method a waste of time. I've done all of these. Nothing works better for me than the finger method. With the back of the comb I find it scrapes the creme off. You have a better coverage with fingers as you can feel what needs to be smoothed out and it can get into every 'nook and cranny' far easier than a comb. You can also put more pressure on the hair with the pads of your fingers for a better smoothing than if you were to put the same amount of pressure on with a comb.
Just a side note from looking at the picture. I treat this as one section but still relax it in 2 parts straight down the middle. The choice is entirely yours.
Step 5
Rinsing. Just pretend the relaxer is on my hair OK.
Place the shower cap over the top section of your hair. You can use clips to hold it in place. Your parting should be straight in order to fit the cap. If you don't have 2 mirrors to see the back then please get somebody to assist you. When you part to base your scalp you can see if it fits your partings before you start the relaxing process.
You see the shower head in the pic. This can be removed from the wall? I can actually place this on my parting with my head tilted backwards in order to rinse out the relaxer. With my head tilted backward in the shower I use my other hand to lightly lift the hair away from the scalp in order to be rinsed in light circular motions. My aim is not to have the creme seep into my scalp in order to burn it. Make sure the water is a mild temperature anything hotter will be unbearable and potentially damaging to your scalp with a chemical already on it. Rinse for a good continuous 5 - 8 mins or until you are sure all traces of the relaxer are removed. Do not tilt your head forward.
Once all traces of the relaxer have been removed apply a conditioner. I use Porosity control at this stage or you can use anyone of your choice. Most people think at this stage you neutralise, that comes afterwards. Leave the conditioner on for about 5-10 mins. I make sure to massage conditioner well into my scalp something I don't actually do on regular wash days, only the hair. Rinse out the conditioner and proceed with your neutralising shampoo. Shampoo about 2 - 3 times removing all traces of relaxer. If you have a colour indicator shampoo shampoo until the shampoo has returned to white. You MUST use a neutralising shampoo. If you don't have one GET ONE. But NEVER relax without it. The purpose of the shampoo is to bring the hair back to to the normal PH level. I think it's about a 7 for our hair. On a relaxer application it's about a 12 or 13, very alkaline. Never shampoo just once. I think in a case of freshly relaxed hair ever twice is cutting it fine. Don't forget the area around the ears and the ears itself ladies.
This pic is just to show you an example. REMEMBER TO REMOVE ALL JEWELRY BEFORE RELAXING!
Step 6
Do not use a comb to comb the relaxer through, this is time consuming and damaging. The relaxer is already breaking down the bonds of the hair, when you couple that with dragging a comb through each coated strand, what you are doing is stretching the hair which is already being broken down, it's like a double process. You may get straighter hair, but it will definitely be weaker. I do not advise this. I also find the back of the comb method a waste of time. I've done all of these. Nothing works better for me than the finger method. With the back of the comb I find it scrapes the creme off. You have a better coverage with fingers as you can feel what needs to be smoothed out and it can get into every 'nook and cranny' far easier than a comb. You can also put more pressure on the hair with the pads of your fingers for a better smoothing than if you were to put the same amount of pressure on with a comb.
Just a side note from looking at the picture. I treat this as one section but still relax it in 2 parts straight down the middle. The choice is entirely yours.
Step 5Rinsing. Just pretend the relaxer is on my hair OK.
Place the shower cap over the top section of your hair. You can use clips to hold it in place. Your parting should be straight in order to fit the cap. If you don't have 2 mirrors to see the back then please get somebody to assist you. When you part to base your scalp you can see if it fits your partings before you start the relaxing process.
You see the shower head in the pic. This can be removed from the wall? I can actually place this on my parting with my head tilted backwards in order to rinse out the relaxer. With my head tilted backward in the shower I use my other hand to lightly lift the hair away from the scalp in order to be rinsed in light circular motions. My aim is not to have the creme seep into my scalp in order to burn it. Make sure the water is a mild temperature anything hotter will be unbearable and potentially damaging to your scalp with a chemical already on it. Rinse for a good continuous 5 - 8 mins or until you are sure all traces of the relaxer are removed. Do not tilt your head forward.
Once all traces of the relaxer have been removed apply a conditioner. I use Porosity control at this stage or you can use anyone of your choice. Most people think at this stage you neutralise, that comes afterwards. Leave the conditioner on for about 5-10 mins. I make sure to massage conditioner well into my scalp something I don't actually do on regular wash days, only the hair. Rinse out the conditioner and proceed with your neutralising shampoo. Shampoo about 2 - 3 times removing all traces of relaxer. If you have a colour indicator shampoo shampoo until the shampoo has returned to white. You MUST use a neutralising shampoo. If you don't have one GET ONE. But NEVER relax without it. The purpose of the shampoo is to bring the hair back to to the normal PH level. I think it's about a 7 for our hair. On a relaxer application it's about a 12 or 13, very alkaline. Never shampoo just once. I think in a case of freshly relaxed hair ever twice is cutting it fine. Don't forget the area around the ears and the ears itself ladies.
This pic is just to show you an example. REMEMBER TO REMOVE ALL JEWELRY BEFORE RELAXING!
Step 6After shampooing I added Mane N Tail as a leave in conditioner before moving onto the next section of hair. Towel blot the hair, do not rub vigorously, your scalp may be tender, but you shouldn't do this anyway. Remove the excess water and use your styling aids to detangle and add the conditioner of your choice. Pin or clip this section of hair within the back half like in Step 2 before moving onto the next section. I ALWAYS leave the bathroom at this point to cool down and close my pores before starting the next section.
Step 7
Step 7I positioned the shower cap around the parting of the top half and clipped this in place. This would not stay on it's own. It does for me for the top half only but this requires 2-3 clips. Make sure none of the clips are in your way for relaxing the top half.
Step 7
Step 7Another View. I always double base the edges at the front.
Step 7
Step 7Top View.
Trust me this method has never failed me yet. I have never gotten a drop of water on any of the untouched hair.
Step 8
Trust me this method has never failed me yet. I have never gotten a drop of water on any of the untouched hair.
Step 8Repeat the relaxing steps, always leave the side by the ear and the front till last, these are baby fine areas that don't need a lot of time.
To rinse tilt your head to the side holding the shower head at the base of the parting. Condition, neutralise, leave in conditioner then pin up and move on to the final section. You won't need the shower cap on this part as 2 thirds are already done and it doesn't matter about the rest of the hair getting wet from the water as it has already been relaxed. When rinsing the top 2 you shouldn't get any relaxer rinsing away on any of your previous relaxed tresses. If you do simply rinse those off also.
When the whole head has been relaxed I will neutralise just once more all over (still in the 3 sections) and then proceed with a deep conditioning with heat. Rinsed out and then start styling as desired. I usually put it in a damp pony post relaxer with my hair products applied.
TIP:
Before relaxing how about practising with the shower cap and jumping in the shower (without the water on of course) to see how comfortable it feels to do these motions before you start relaxing. Or you could practise this method on a regular wash day pretending the shampoo or conditioner is actually a relaxer!!!!!
Step 9
To rinse tilt your head to the side holding the shower head at the base of the parting. Condition, neutralise, leave in conditioner then pin up and move on to the final section. You won't need the shower cap on this part as 2 thirds are already done and it doesn't matter about the rest of the hair getting wet from the water as it has already been relaxed. When rinsing the top 2 you shouldn't get any relaxer rinsing away on any of your previous relaxed tresses. If you do simply rinse those off also.
When the whole head has been relaxed I will neutralise just once more all over (still in the 3 sections) and then proceed with a deep conditioning with heat. Rinsed out and then start styling as desired. I usually put it in a damp pony post relaxer with my hair products applied.
TIP:
Before relaxing how about practising with the shower cap and jumping in the shower (without the water on of course) to see how comfortable it feels to do these motions before you start relaxing. Or you could practise this method on a regular wash day pretending the shampoo or conditioner is actually a relaxer!!!!!
Step 9Style as desired. Here I flat ironed lightly to see my relaxing results. I'm very proud of this as it cost me NOTHING and I did a good job.
TIP:
Wash your hair within the next day or 2 with your neutraliser shampoo again.
Step 10 - All Done
TIP:
Wash your hair within the next day or 2 with your neutraliser shampoo again.
The hair can be very flat and limp post relaxer but a few hair washes soon changes that before the body seems to bounce back.
GOOD LUCK!!!!
GOOD LUCK!!!!
Beautiful hair! It's nice to finally see who's been writing the blog that I spend most of my time reading and laughing.
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